Karl Lee Soule\'
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I just keep the file uncompressed or in a HuffYUV format for best quality. You can also save to DV-AVI.
The current time can be done by keeping the CG application open at the same time as Switcher, and in CG, right-click on the workspace, and choose Time Display. It’ll pull the time off the system clock, and as long as you keep it open in the CG application, it’ll continue to update. DON’T try saving out a project with this feature, and loading it into Switcher – the time won’t update.
I don’t know of a way to use RSS feeds – there’s some newer features in 3.1 involving slaving a DSK to a copy of the CG app, and pushing data to predefined field templates. Maybe Chris Hayes or Mike can answer this one better.
Have you tried reseating the RAM on the Time Machine board? I’ve had cases where it’s come loose in transit, resulting in erratic behavior like this.
If I’m not mistaken, you’ll also need to install the upgrade key card into the GlobeCaster in order to make the older Trinity cards work in the new GlobeCaster. GlobeCasters will only recognize GlobeCaster cards, and Trinitys will only recognize Trinity cards. The way to cross-pollinate is to add an upgrade card. Once the upgrade card is installed, the system will recognize either cards.
Most upgrade cards are installed in Trinity systems, but I know a few full GlobeCaster 8000’s that have an “upgrade” card in them to use older Trinity cards.
You can abort a flatten by tapping the Space Bar two times. However, be ready to save/quit/restart if you do this. Sometimes, after I abort a flatten, I start getting an error message stating “A coordinator track couldn’t be allocated.” A quick reset/restart fixes it, and I never lose any data.
PCI Express is a new, faster replacement for AGP in newer motherboards. It provides even faster throughput for certain functions.
If you stick with a good card that’ll support OpenGL/Direct3D good, I would think you’d be fine. The Effects Generator takes advantage of 3D acceleration in the video card, and the Animator uses a “blitting” function that most video cards should do fine.
As with any video card, check with the manufacturer’s site for the latest updated drivers.
If you need to get the Switcher up and running quickly, just pull the card, and the system should start right up. If you want to troubleshoot the Time Machine board:
1. Try reseating the Time Machine card.
2. Try reseating the RAM on the Time Machine card
(do each of these steps with the box OFF. Follow all ESD guidelines, etc)
Also, while performing these tests, DON’T LOAD ANY TM CLIPS. Time Machine clips commandeer the two input modules they are connected to. Any green sync lights you are seeing when using Time Machine are probably because you are loading a TM clip, and the clip is playing through the input.
First off, make sure the deck is set to “sync” and not “video” for sync.
Connect the Black Burst out of the GC directly to the Reference input on the deck.
Hit “play” on the deck, so there’s a signal playing. Preferably a test pattern.
Connect the SDI out of the deck to the topmost connector on the card.
Perform a GC Reset.
Launch the Switcher.
Check genlock status lights on the input module, and check the input.
If this is a “newer” SDI input card, it’ll have a composite “thru” connector at the bottom of the card. Plug this into a monitor,a nd see if you are getting signal there.
SDI can be a bit flakey if sync isn’t perfect and the cable isn’t perfect. Plus, the early SDI cards didn’t lock up tothe signal well – sometimes a GC reset is required to get the signal to lock up.
IF you are still getting nothing but a pink/green screen, then the card is probably toast.
The Animator/Compositor is on a different code base. I’ve found that since 3.0, it’s ALWAYS better to import your clips in the Editor first, then play in A/C with the Time Machine clips. Like I said, it’s a fairly long import process, but it’s CLEAN!
Heh, I just want to hijack this thread for a moment to say that you can throw almost ANYTHING at the timeline now, and it’ll open it. I did a contract gig for a church, and they pushed it – old 320×240 and 640×480 MPG files, very old QuickTime movies, etc. The system didn’t even have QuickTime installed, and yet the clips were copied very cleanly to the Time Machine.
Now, it will take a while in some cases – one of the older MPEG files was 3 minutes long, and it took about 15 minutes to copy/transcode. But, it looked nice and clean on the 12-foot projectors!
Okay, back to your regularly scheduled program…
Casey, I still have a Peja Stojakavic bobblehead sitting here with your name on it… Remind me, and I’ll bring it!
For more professional material, check http://www.belgerphotography.com. I’ve heard good things about their service from others.
I abandoned the text tool in A/C years ago in favor of using the CG application, and a little known function.
In the CG application, type the text you need on the screen. Then, select it into a bounding box. Right-click on it, and choose “Save Selection.” This will save a TGA file of the text you selected in the CG/Projects directory.
This TGA file will drag and drop into A/C, and can be animated like any other graphic. If I need to animate individual letters, I use the “save selection” option to save each letter as a separate TGA file.
One note – if you plan on zooming the text in A/C, make it as big as possible in the CG application, or it will pixelate when zoomed in A/C.
I think the one thing that would “fix” a lot of issues is if, when using the T-Bar, the frame count would automatically jump to the maximum possible (999, but I think anything over 255 is ignored anyway.) This is the way a traditional T-bar works – it’s not tied to the amount of steps the Auto key is set for.
Since the “steps” in the T-bar are currently based on this number, it doesn’t work as expected, unless you set the Auto rate for an ungodly number.
I realize that some effects have a fixed rate, so changing this wouldn’t make the DVE’s smoother, for example. But wipe effects and dissolves would be a lot smoother.
Another change I would propose is to make the darn thing less sensitive. It’s got 1024 steps in it. Set the “top” and “bottom” on it at something like200 and 800. This would make the “reset” of the bar less difficult. On some control surfaces I’ve used, you literally have to press the bar hard into the top of bottom for it to recognize the top or bottom value, and reset.